Bedford International - Importers of Fine Italian Wines since 1949

Sergio Castellani

Nowadays, in Italy about one in every 15 acres of land is cultivated with grapes. Quantity and sheer table wine production have always benefited from Italy's sunny weather, but the most dramatic strides in improving quality have come through technical specialization. Gone are the days of decaying wines, stifled by overexposure to wood and bad winemaking.

Leading the way are Italy's new enologists, the consultants retained by many producers to advise on the agronomy and vinification techniques that best suit each terroir. The founder of this new movement is Giacomo Tachis, the creator of Tignanello, Sassicaia, and Pelago. His disciples are Donato Lanati, Gian Carlo Scaglione, Attilio Pagli, Fabrizio Ciuffoli, Giuseppe Caviola, Vittorio Fiore, Riccardo Cotarella, Franco Bernabei and Giuliano Noè.

They all master the adequate use of barrique-aging, necessary to obtain earlier accessibility and the rounded, smooth style demanded around the world. They also compliment Italy's own varietals with the international grapes, such as Cabernet, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Most of all, the work of these talented wine masters has directed producers towards quality, low yields, high density of plantings and the use of state-of-the-art equipment that was often neglected in the past.

Thanks to the use of horizontal presses, stainless-steel tanks, filtration of must, temperature controlled fermentation and storage, today's Italian white wines are crisp, clean, intensely fruity, fresh, and vibrant; they showcase better acid content, structure and stability. The judicious use of barriques has refined many of the reds, rounding their sharp edges, softening them and bringing out, with maturity, their aristocratic core. Italian wine producers have accepted the reality that great quality is the key to survival, especially in the international arena.